After four years of exploring the rugged mountains and hidden valleys of Colombia, we thought we had seen it all. We’ve tackled the steepest climbs, enjoyed endless descents with epic views, and shared coffee with farmers in the deepest reaches of the countryside. But until this year, we had never experienced the glorious, month-long marathon that is a Colombian Christmas.
If you think your neighbor who starts decorating in November is over-the-top, you haven’t seen anything yet.
The Month That Never Ends
In Colombia, Christmas isn’t a day; it’s an entire personality. Ask any local in Jericó, and they’ll tell you the same thing: Christmas starts at the beginning of December and doesn’t let up until the calendar turns.
Colombians are already world champions of joy—consistently ranking near the top of the World Values Survey of happiest countries—but in December? The happiness meter goes off the charts. The streets of Antioquia transform into a high-energy blend of devotion, dancing (humans and horses), and a surprising number of Disney characters.
Lighting the Way: Día de las Velitas
The “unofficial” official start happens on the night of December 7th, known as Día de las Velitas (Day of the Little Candles). This national holiday honors the Immaculate Conception, but for the visitor, it looks like the entire country has been set aglow.
Families line sidewalks, balconies, and cobblestone streets with thousands of candles and paper lanterns. In Jericó, the flicker of candlelight against the colorful colonial facades is pure magic. It’s a night of quiet reflection mixed with the loud bangs of fireworks—the perfect metaphor for Colombia itself.
Polar Bears in the Tropics??
One of the most charmingly humorous parts of an Antioquian Christmas is the decor. Step into any town square (the parque principal) and you’ll find the traditional, elaborate nativity scenes you’d expect. But look a little closer, and you might see a life-sized ceramic polar bear standing in a fountain next to tropical trees. There is a wonderful, whimsical lack of “logic” to the decorations that we absolutely love. Who says you can’t have a blizzard-themed display in a town that’s a balmy 22°C (72°F)?
The Gift of the Baby Jesus
We also learned quickly that our chimney-sliding friend Santa Claus doesn’t have much jurisdiction here. In Colombia, it’s El Niño Jesús (Baby Jesus) who brings the gifts. While the red suit and white beard appear on posters, the kids know who is actually doing the heavy lifting on the night of the 24th.
The lack of chimneys in Jericó doesn’t seem to slow Baby Jesus down one bit—though we suspect he might have an easier time getting around if he traded the donkey for a hard tail.
A Poetic Taste of Tradition: Natilla
It was on our Christmas tours this season that we finally sat down to the legendary Christmas delicacy. You cannot talk about a Colombian Christmas without mentioning Natilla – a silken, spiced cinnamon custard that tastes like a hug from an abuela. It is the texture of a dream and the color of a sunset over the Cauca Valley, usually served alongside a delightfully cheesy, fried buñuelo.
We were fortunate enough to be halfway between Jardin and Riosucio on Christmas Eve, when the amazing ladies of Peña Blanca graced us with its deliciousness (at the end of a huge lunch of fried trout with all the fixins). It made the long downhill into Riosucio even better than usual.
Horses, Music, and the Open Road
Christmas in Jericó is a sensory explosion. There is constant music, impromptu dancing in the squares, and the rhythmic clack-clack of horses being paraded through the streets by proud caballeros.
We were thrilled to have two groups of adventurers join us this year to witness the madness and the beauty. There is something profoundly special about finishing a world-class ride and rolling into a village square that is literally vibrating with festive cheer.
Join Us for Christmas 2026!
The best part about the Colombian “Month of Christmas” is that you can experience the lights, the candles, and the natilla, and still be home in time to spend the 25th with your family.
We have just announced our Late Fall/Winter 2026 Trip Dates and the December Tour del Café corresponds perfectly with the Dia de la Velitas! If you want to trade the winter slush for warm smiles and fantastic riding, now is the time to start planning. And fear not, if the December trip does not work out for you there is lots of dancing (humans and horses) and celebrating during all the other months as well!
Explore Our 2026 Late Fall/Winter Tours Here
Come for the riding, stay for the polar bears in the plaza. The natilla will be waiting for you.
