People often ask us what a typical day on one of our tours looks like. The answer, of course, is that there really is no such thing as a typical day when you’re cycling through Colombia. One day might involve coffee farms and waterfalls. Another might involve trying freshly made panela or navigating past a farmer and his horse herding cattle down the road.
Still, if we had to choose one day that captures the spirit of Colombia Bicycle Adventures, the ride from Jardín to Riosucio would be a strong contender.
It has a little bit of everything: a challenging climb, a cloud forest, spectacular views, hummingbirds, delicious food, a thrilling descent, and cake. Really good cake.
Not a bad way to spend a day on a bicycle.
Morning in Jardín
The day begins in Jardín, one of Antioquia’s most beautiful towns and a designated heritage town known for its colorful buildings, flower-filled balconies, and lively central square.
The afternoon before, many guests visit the famous Cock-of-the-Rock reserve, where they have the chance to see the spectacular Andean Cock-of-the-Rock performing its unforgettable courtship displays. And most spend the evening wandering the plaza, enjoying a freshly made juice or cerveza on the plaza, or simply soaking in the atmosphere of a town that seems to move at exactly the right speed.
As the town slowly wakes up, Gabriel (one of our favorite hotel owners) serves fresh local coffee on the hotel’s patio. The mountain air is cool, the birds are already active, and the first rays of sunlight begin to illuminate the hills surrounding Jardín.
For many riders, this is the moment when the reality of the day ahead starts to sink in.
Today, we climb.
After a leisurely coffee, it’s time to repack bikes, load water bottles, perform the traditional pre-ride ritual of checking that everything is exactly where it was yesterday, and head into town for breakfast.
Breakfast is served at one of our favorite local spots just off the main square. Plates arrive loaded with eggs, arepas, quesito, buñuelos, and enough coffee and hot chocolate (an almost exclusively breakfast drink in Colombia) to convince everyone that climbing mountains on bicycles is an excellent idea.
At least temporarily.
Leaving Town
By around 8:00 a.m., we roll out of Jardín.
The first miles take us through the outskirts of town, where farmers are already at work and the streets gradually give way to quiet country roads. Before long, the pavement gives way to dirt and the real adventure begins.
For some cyclists, this is where the fun starts. For others, this is where negotiations with gravity begin.
The climb winds gradually but steadily upward through the mountains. Houses become less frequent. Coffee farms give way to pastureland and patches of forest. Each switchback reveals a new perspective of the valley below.
Every few minutes someone looks back and notices that Jardín is now much farther away than it seemed a moment ago. The town shrinks. The mountains grow. The cameras come out.
Fortunately, there are plenty of excuses to stop. Waterfalls tumble down steep hillsides. Birds dart through the trees. The scenery seems determined to reward every pedal stroke.
Into the Cloud Forest
As we gain elevation, the landscape begins to change.
The warm air of the lower valleys gradually gives way to cooler temperatures and thicker vegetation. Moss appears on trees. Ferns become larger. The forest closes in around the road.
On many days, mist drifts through the mountains, creating the feeling that you’ve somehow wandered into a rainforest hidden above the clouds.
Birdwatchers are particularly fond of this section of the ride. The forests between Jardín and Riosucio are home to an astonishing variety of birdlife, and sharp-eyed riders frequently spot one of Antioquia’s most beloved birds, the Andean Mot Mot (aka El Barranquero).
Even for those who cannot identify every species, the soundtrack is impossible to ignore. Calls, whistles, and songs echo through the forest as riders make their way steadily upward.
This is usually the point in the day when conversations become a little shorter.
Not because people are unhappy.
Mostly because they’re climbing.
Lunch at Peñas Blancas
After 3-4 hours of climbing, we reach Peñas Blancas. And what a welcome sight it is.
The Morales family has been welcoming mountain travelers for years, and by the time we arrive, lunch is usually ready.
The timing could not be better.
Bicycles are leaned against walls. Helmets come off. Riders find chairs and begin doing the calculations all cyclists do after a long climb.
How hungry am I?
The answer is always: very.
Lunch is a feast of local mountain cooking. Fried trout, rice, plátano, fresh salad, hot soup, and aguapanela provide exactly the fuel needed after a morning spent earning every meter of elevation.
As everyone eats, attention frequently shifts between the food and the remarkable views stretching down into the valleys below.
It is one of those places where people often find themselves taking photos in every direction and then realizing none of them quite capture what they’re actually seeing.
The Best Kind of Afternoon
The good news arrives after lunch.
The rest of the day is downhill.
This announcement is generally met with broad smiles.
The descent begins gently before carrying us toward one of the most memorable stops of the day: the hummingbird reserve.
If you’ve never had a hummingbird land inches from your face while feeding from your hand, it’s an experience that’s difficult to describe.
Within minutes, riders who spent the morning discussing gearing ratios and climbing strategies are standing completely still, grinning like children while tiny iridescent birds zip around them at impossible speeds.
The hummingbirds are mesmerizing.
The climb is forgotten.
Or at least mostly forgotten.
The Long Descent to Riosucio
From the hummingbird reserve, the road continues downhill through a landscape that seems to change around every corner.
Small farms cling to the mountainsides.
Cows graze in steep pastures.
Children wave as we ride past tiny settlements.
The views seem endless.
This stretch of road is one of the reasons so many riders fall in love with Colombia. The mountains are vast, the scenery is constantly changing, and despite the dramatic landscapes, daily life continues much as it has for generations.
Eventually, the mountains begin to open up.
Signs of the city appear.
The descent comes to an end.
We have arrived in Riosucio.
An Evening in the City of the Devil
Riosucio is very different from Jardín.
Larger, busier, and more urban, it is perhaps best known as the home of the famous Carnival of the Devil, one of Colombia’s most unique cultural celebrations.
Despite the intimidating name, the festival is not sinister at all. In fact, the devil serves more as a symbol of unity, celebration, and local identity.
After checking into the hotel, guests are free to spend an hour or two however they choose.
Some stretch out on the bed and declare themselves temporarily unavailable for all physical activity.
Others head out to explore the plazas, churches, and bustling streets of town.
Both approaches are perfectly acceptable.
Eventually, everyone reconvenes for dinner.
As with many things in Colombia, the food is excellent, the portions are generous, and the conversation often revolves around comparing favorite moments from the day.
The climb.
The waterfalls.
The hummingbirds.
The lunch.
The views.
And then comes dessert.
The Perfect Finish
No visit to Riosucio would be complete without a stop at Vanilla Caramelo, our favorite bakery of the tour.
The husband-and-wife team behind the bakery produces cakes, pastries, and desserts that have become legendary among our guests.
Every tour develops certain traditions.
Stopping at Vanilla Caramelo is one of ours.
The challenge is deciding what to order.
The bigger challenge is not ordering a second one.
As the evening winds down, riders stroll back to the hotel through the lively streets of Riosucio.
They are tired, but it is the satisfying kind of tired that comes from spending a day moving through spectacular landscapes under your own power.
Tomorrow will bring new roads, new flavors, new conversations, and new discoveries.
But for now, the day’s work is done.
The bicycles are parked.
The mountains are behind us.
The cake has been consumed.
And another memorable day in Colombia is in the books.
